NATURAL PERFUME
“Smoke of Ambergris” painted by John Singer Sargent 1880
“I will tell you of a perfume which my mistress has from the graces and the gods of love; when you smell it, you will ask of the deities to make of you only a nose.” (Catullus)
Have you walked into an office or a hospital or a government building lately, and seen the signs that say “No perfume”? Synthetic fragrance and perfumes are the toxic brews urging us to wake up and smell the roses. Wheezing, sneezing and runny eyes are telling us, “Something is rotten in the State of Denmark”! What has gone wrong?
Rita Hayworth in a famous scene from the movie Gilda
Today perfume is a billion-dollar industry linked to celebrity and fashion; a worldwide commercial monster based on synthetic chemicals and created by the same flavor and aroma chemists in big factories who make Tide smell fresh and MacDonald French Fries smell like … well, MacDonald French fries! How many years have we been dousing ourselves in unhealthy chemicals, holding our babies and our lovers, and washing these same chemicals down the drain and into our streams and oceans? And still we line up in droves. Why? Because we refuse to give up our ancient human desire to smell good.
If we have to blame someone for all those synthetic chemicals, shake your finger at the industrial revolution. When chemists realized they could create aroma chemicals and colourful dyes out of petroleum for a tiny fraction of the cost, the world has never looked back.
Sold with a kiss, Tabu’s memorable advertisement from 1931. Originally painted by Renè Prinet in 1898 and titled “The Kreutzer Sonata.
Luckily, there is a renaissance happening in the world of perfume. Like the discovery of wind, ocean & solar energy, modern day alchemists are returning to the world of nature to create beautiful perfumes.
A REALLY SHORT HISTORY OF PERFUME
The history of the world is ripe with aroma. For centuries, nature’s flowers, leaves, seeds, barks, grasses, roots and buds were the medicine, food, aphrodisiacs and guide to the spirit realm. The word “perfume”, comes from the Latin, “through smoke”, as a testimony to its ability to transport us between earth and heaven (body to spirit). Scent lives on air and connects with our oldest brain – the limbic system – the birthplace of memory and desire.
In the golden age of perfume and alchemy, France was the garden and epicenter of all things aromatic. Acres of jasmine and tuberose, mimosa and Rose de Mai were painstakingly picked and processed through ancient techniques of enfleurage, maceration and distillation to provide the seductive backdrop of the social scene between medieval men and women. Napoleon loved the scent of rosemary, and Josephine painted her walls with animal musk. History tells the extraordinary story of a man so entranced by natural scents (Septimus Piesse in 18th C France) that he fashioned a scent organ that released puffs of perfume when played. His symphony of scent is famous, but by all accounts the event was poorly attended.
Patrick Suskind, in his novel “Perfume”, epitomized the human longing for the perfect scent. His main character Grenouille, composed a perfume from the scent of murdered virgins and drove the masses wild with lust
WHY NATURAL PERFUME?
We cannot leave this really short history of perfume without recognizing the “Age of Patchouli”. In the 1960’s, the era of Peace and Love in the west, Indian cashmere shawls were exported in crates and sprinkled with patchouli leaves to prevent moth infestation. Patchouli became the symbol scent of the hippie generation . This temporary return to the land, and refusal of all things “unnatural” was important, but short-lived. The counter culture revolution was tamed because of its controversial link to a drug culture, the golden age of TV and the explosion of commercialism. Patchouli, however, remains a star in the natural perfumer’s organ.
1970’s Stevie Nicks rocking her witchy boho shall. Drugs, Sex & Rock & Roll
photo credit Pinterest
We know the human body has an affinity for things grown here on our planet – whole molecules – in our food, our medicine and our beauty aids. Natural perfumes are healthy.
A complex natural perfume gracefully unfolds on warm skin like a song or a poem. It offers a profound relationship between the wearer and the natural world.
photo credit Trina Carey Photography for Flore Botanical Alchemy
With such noble beginnings, how can we have come so far from our roots? Today there is only one field of Jasmine left in France (virgins are as yet uncounted). Cost of labour combined with a thriving chemical industry rang the death knell, not only in France, but around the world.
Hand picked Jasmine
Beware of Egyptian perfumers! Struggling for tourist dollars, there is very little to nothing left of the real thing in Egyptian perfume shops; even though it is the birthplace of distillation and they swear profusely that each bottle of perfume is “pure”. Prohibitively expensive, the real aromatic essences are protected for the wealthy. The same goes for aromatics from India. Only a very small percentage of essential oils, attars and hydrosols are authentic.
(For a beautifully written, concise history of perfume, read Essence & Alchemy by Mandy Aftel.)
NATURAL PERFUME versus SYNTHETIC PERFUME
THE NATURAL PERFUMERS BUYERS GUIDE – Find your signature scent
“Beauty is in the eye of the beholder.” All perfumes are not pleasing to all people. Some people will never relinquish their signature synthetic fragrance. For those entering the brave new world, approaching the unknown can be daunting.
How can you tell the true artists from the unskilled; the masterpieces from the amateurs. Here are three things to look for in your natural perfume:
1. SMOOTH EVOLUTION: The top chord or introduction of the perfume should move smoothly through to its heart theme and dry-down. Although the scent will evolve on the skin over an hour or two, it should not suddenly change as its more delicate notes evaporate. Like a piece of music it should be cohesive, lull you and leave you a soft base chord at its culmination.
2. LONGEVITY: The perfume should not disappear in 20 minutes. A critical part of the perfumer’s art is called “fixation”. Although never as long-lasting as a preservative laden, synthetic perfume, a natural perfume needs to linger pleasantly on the skin for at least one to two hours.
3. BEAUTY: The perfume should have a beautiful character or feeling about it. Not merely enough to be pleasant, it should evoke ideas and emotions in the wearer.
4. COST: A true natural perfume containing rare and exotic ingredients is expensive. If the price is low, be suspicious.
HOW TO WEAR YOUR NATURAL PERFUME:
Because of its more tender nature, a natural perfume will last longer if you apply it in crevasses and hidden places (between the breasts, bend in the elbow, the nape of the neck) or under your clothes. Because of its natural affinity for protein, apply some perfume to your hands and caress into your hair or onto natural fabric like cotton, hemp or wool. If you find that your body temperature tends to be warmer, you might consider choosing a solid version (made with beeswax and jojoba), although not as bright as an alcohol-based perfume, it will last longer on the skin.
If you have a known fragrance allergy, experience cautiously. One drop smelled on a tissue first, and then one drop under a bandaid for a few hours is a good idea. Make sure you are prepared in case of an allergic response.
FRAGRANCE CLASSIFICATIONS
Citrus: Light, bright citrus splash with herbal notes
Fruity Floral: light, sweet with berry-like notes, vanilla and citrus
Oriental: rich vanillic and deep balsamic base notes, spices and precious woods
Floriental: exotic woody, resinous and vanillic base notes with a floral heart
Chypre: forest floor mossy notes with herbs, flowers and bright citrus
Ethnic: earthy patchouli, spikenard and vetiver with spices and strong florals like carnation and tuberose
Powdery: vanilla, soft balsams and sandalwood with creamy florals
Leather: animilic notes with resins and smoky notes
Fougere: fantasy fern, includes notes like violet leaf and sweetgrass
Gourmand: reminiscent of food; can include chocolate, berries, mushrooms, licorice
CAUTIONARY TALES
Natural Perfume is not an Aromatherapy Blend
Made exclusively from steam-distilled essences, an aromatherapy blend is therapeutic in intention. A natural perfume contains natural essences like absolutes, concretes, attars, resins and tinctures, is more complex and is aesthetic in intention.
Green Washing
Big cosmetic companies are seeing the tides change. Even well-known “green” companies are splashing the world “natural” on a lot of perfumes and body care products that are not 100% natural. This is false advertising, and aimed at protecting a healthy profit margin. Read the labels.
Natural Isolate
A whole aromatic molecule that is fractionated through distillation or with solvents to create a stronger, simple aromatic element. They are often combined to create aromas reminiscent of fruit or other naturally inspired smells. Some natural perfumers use these natural isolates in small doses. Synthetic isolates are frequently used by big companies. It is not always easily to tell the difference. Words like limonene, citral, linalool and geranial are often indications of naturally derived fragrance isolates (but not always). Words like muscone, farnesol, indole, coumarin, damescencne and heliotropin are often indications of synthetic isolates. It all comes down to money and availability. Isolates can be mild skin irritants.
Vegan Classification
Some natural perfumes contain animal exudations (like ambergris, castoreum, hyraceum, bee propolis, civet). Solid perfumes often include beeswax. Ask the perfumer before purchasing
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Written by: K. Van Dyck